Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
